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Seasonal

Expansive Clay Soil, Drought and Sewer Pipe Breaks

In most of the country, the sewer post for early November is about frost depth and frozen lines. San Diego doesn't get frozen sewer laterals. What it has instead is expansive clay soil and sewer pipes that sit in it: soil that spends six months shrinking and then, sometime in the next few weeks, takes on the first real rain of the season and swells. That cycle is one of the main reasons old pipes here break. It's just slower and quieter about it than a freeze.

The soil

A large part of San Diego's inland and mesa neighborhoods, and much of East County, sits on expansive clay: Clairemont, Serra Mesa, Tierrasanta, Allied Gardens, Del Cerro, the College Area, parts of La Mesa, El Cajon and Chula Vista. Expansive clay absorbs water and swells; it dries and shrinks. The swing between a saturated February and a bone-dry October can be an inch or more of vertical movement in the top few feet of soil, and more than that at the surface where the cracks open up in late summer.

The coastal strip is different: sandier soils in Point Loma, Ocean Beach, Pacific Beach, La Jolla and along the North County beaches drain fast and move less. But the older central neighborhoods (North Park, Normal Heights, Kensington) sit on a mix, and the mesas are where the slab-on-grade post-war houses are, so the clay is under a lot of the housing stock that also has the oldest pipes.

Offset joints from soil movement

A clay lateral is a chain of three- or four-foot lengths of vitrified clay, each sitting in a trench that was backfilled decades ago. The soil around each length moves with the seasons. It doesn't move evenly: the length under the lawn, watered all summer, sits in soil that stays damper than the length under the driveway, which bakes. Over decades, one length shifts relative to the next. Offset joints from soil movement are, after roots, one of the most common camera findings in Clairemont and the other mesa neighborhoods.

A belly is the other result. A section of trench that was backfilled loose settles more than its neighbors, the pipe sags, and water and paper sit in the low spot.

Soil movement under slab plumbing

Cast iron under a slab is rigid and set in place. When the soil under the slab shrinks in summer, the pipe is unsupported in spots; when it swells in November, it's pushed. The hubs, where lengths join, are the weak points, and a cracked hub under a slab is where an under-slab leak usually starts. Soil movement under slab plumbing is also why toilet seals fail more often on clay lots: the flange rides on the slab, and the slab moves.

Drought and sewer lines

A normal San Diego year has a wet-dry swing. A drought year has a longer, deeper dry phase, so the clay shrinks further, the cracks go deeper, and the surface pulls away from foundations and pipes more than usual. Then the first storm hits soil that's cracked open, water goes straight down those cracks, and the swelling is fast and uneven. Watering restrictions make the lawn-versus-driveway difference bigger too, because nobody's keeping the lawn side damp.

The other link between drought and sewer lines is the one everyone knows: tree roots going deeper and harder for water. A joint that soil movement has opened is a joint roots find in the same season.

What a broken sewer pipe looks like in November

  • A line that ran fine all summer backs up in the first week of rain. The joint that shifted in the dry months is now catching paper.
  • A slab-house smell or damp patch that appears as the ground swells and the cracked hub is pushed.
  • Gurgling and slow drains in the days after a storm, then normal, then back with the next storm.
  • A sewer main surcharge on the lowest streets during a big storm, which is the city's problem rather than yours, but which tests every weak trap and marginal joint on the block.

The first two weeks of real rain bring a wave of these failures, and a broken sewer pipe that was hiding all summer often shows itself then. The signs of a broken sewer line guide has the full list of what to watch for.

Expansive clay soil and sewer pipes: what you can change

Not the soil, and you shouldn't try. What you can change is how much water it gets and how uneven that is:

  1. Extend downspouts well away from the foundation. Water dumped at the slab edge swells the clay under the edge and not the middle, which is exactly the uneven movement that cracks hubs.
  2. Keep irrigation consistent through the summer rather than letting the lawn go dry and then soaking it. Deep, less frequent watering is better for the soil and the roots.
  3. Fix drainage that pools against the house.
  4. Don't run a hose into the soil cracks in September to "close them up." It works about as well as it sounds.

What can be done about the pipe

The pipe has to survive the movement, and the old ones often can't. A CIPP liner inside a clay lateral holds the joints together as one continuous tube, and it flexes enough to ride out the annual shift. A burst-in HDPE pipe has no joints at all and flexes more. Either one usually stops the November backup on a line whose only problem was moving joints. A belly is the exception; it has to be dug out and re-bedded on compacted material, and then the rest of the line can be lined.

Under the slab, the answer is a liner in the cast iron, which bridges the cracked hubs from inside, or a re-route. The under-slab page covers both, and the trenchless page covers the lateral.

If your line backed up last November, it's likely to again. A camera inspection now, before the storm, shows whether the joint has moved further and whether this is a $1,500–$4,000 spot repair or a liner. The soil is going to do what it does. The pipe doesn't have to break every time it happens.

Reading the camera file on a clay lot

Soil damage has a look on video, and it helps to know it before someone talks you through the footage:

  • An offset shows as a lip where one length sits higher or lower than the next. A small lip catches paper; a large one catches everything.
  • An open joint shows as a dark ring of soil between two lengths, often with fine roots already in it.
  • A belly shows as standing water that the camera head dips into and climbs out of.
  • A cracked hub on cast iron shows as a split at the bell, sometimes with soil or water weeping in.

Ask for the distance on the screen at each one. Those numbers tell a contractor where a pit would go and how much of the line a liner has to cover.

Mistakes to avoid after the first rain

  1. Paying for a cable run and calling it fixed. Clearing a shifted joint gets you draining, but the joint is still shifted.
  2. Assuming the slab is fine because the yard line is. On a clay lot, check both on one visit.
  3. Replacing a whole line for one offset. A sound line with one moved joint is often a spot repair.
  4. Waiting until spring. The swelling is happening now, and a joint that moved once tends to move again.

Common questions

Can drought crack a sewer pipe?

Not directly, but it sets up the crack. Drought dries expansive clay further than usual, so the soil shrinks away from the pipe and leaves it unsupported, and the first heavy rain then swells it quickly and unevenly. Old clay joints and cast iron hubs are the parts that give.

Why do sewer lines break after the first rain?

Because the soil moves fastest then. Clay that has been shrinking since spring takes on water and swells in days, pushing on pipes and shifting joints that loosened over the summer. A joint that was barely passing paper in October can close up or catch everything once it shifts.

Should I water near my sewer line in a drought?

Follow whatever watering rules your water agency has in place, and within them, water evenly rather than letting one side of the yard bake while the other stays wet. Even moisture means less uneven soil movement around the pipe. Don't soak the ground over the line to "help" it; deep, regular watering of the plants you have is the better habit.

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